Ronda and Gibraltar

Today we headed into Ronda, probably the most famous of the white hill towns dotting this country side. It sits perched on a cliff over looking a beautiful valley below and surrounded on three sides by a river which runs through a gorge which cuts through the mountain on which the town sits. 

Beautiful Ronda perched on a mountain top.

I am sitting in the shade of an old cypress as I write this entry. The bell in the moorish-style bell tower of what was once a minaret for the mosque that once stood here, strikes one o'clock over the Plaza Santa Maria La Mayor.  The beautiful old Church of Santa Maria La Mayor stood here before the Christian reconquest of Ronda in 1487. It was transformed into a Catholic church but retains some of its moorish, north African architecture.

The plaza is surrounded by quaint shops selling Spanish ceramics, brass objects and art prints. Small cafes dot the square. Locals sit out under cypress and orange trees sipping their morning cafe de leches, reading the morning paper or carrying on animated conversations. A 15th century convent sits on another corner, one other church in another and the town hall takes up one other entire side facing the square.

Imagine walking down a tree lined street where the trees are orange trees covered in sweet, ripe oranges. Just reach up and pluck one from the tree. It's okay.

The Plaza Santa Maria La Mayor

A soft breeze blows through the plazas and up the side streets of Ronda cooling you as you climb to the next look out. You turn a corner and a railing is all that is between you and the river Guadalevin flowing several hundred feet below and through the gorge upon which Ronda is built. For centuries this river, flowing around three sides of town, has offered Rondaites at least temporary security from one invader or another. However, modern day invaders are welcomed with open, friendly arms to explore these same, protective ramparts. The Moorish Swords and spears of 500 years ago have been replaced by the modern day hordes of tourists brandishing Euros and cameras.

We stopped in the central square after having spent most of the day wandering the side streets, popping into this shop and that, to order a cano, a tinto de verano and a few tapas. I intend to find out how to make that tinto de verano when we get home. It was a very refreshing red wine based drink.

We walked on up Calle Molino to where we had parked our VW Polo right on the street saving us the €15 parking fee.

The hill town of Grazelema

We considered calling it day and heading back to our room but decided one more hill town might be possible, so we headed off cross country towards Grazalema. The twisting road up to Grazalema took us through the national park and a forest of cork trees which were being harvested as was evidenced by the lack of bark on the trunks of the trees.    

Turning a corner in the windy road, the white washed walls of Grazelema stood out on the edge of a cliff above the valley we drove through. A few more hair-pin turns and we arrived in this quaint, postcard perfect hill town. Absolutely nothing was going on. A few people sat table side in the city square having an afternoon coffee. Otherwise, it was a quiet, sleepy little town, just as we had been told it was. None of the commercialism of Ronda. Just people living quiet lives in the middle of a perfect nowhere. We wandered about the center of town, taking a few photos and then hopped back in the car to head on back to our retreat at the hotel.

This has been an incredible day. We both wish we could have a few more days here to explore more of this villages and to relax here at this lovely hotel.

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Reasons for traveling off season:

1.    The summer crowds are gone.

2.    Prices for hotels drops significantly.

3.    No waiting at great restaurants.

4.    Car rentals are cheaper.

5.    The big attractions can be savored at a slower pace.

6.    People aren't competing for that perfect photograph.

7.    Very few American voices and lots more local's voices to be heard.

8.    No lines.

9.    The weather isn't hot letting you see things in a season other than summer.

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Cable car ride to the top

We decided to pop in on the British colony of Gibraltar today on the way to Sevilla. Since I was a little boy and found out that the rock symbol the Prudential Insurance Company was a real place, I have wanted to see it for my self.  I also have an odd quirk about going to geographic places that have some odd geographic importance. Four corners, the tip of Cape Cod, Cape Flattery, the southern most point of Hawaii. I like to be able to say, when I point it out on a map, that I have stood on that point. Weird? It gives me chills to be able to say I have stood at the closest spot to Africa from Europe or I have stood on the beach at the very tip of Cape Cod. Yeah, weird, huh?

We drove from beautiful Ronda back down the windy road to the Costa del Sol where we turned west. About an hour down the coast we got our first glimpse of the rock of Gibraltar.  It sits right at the closest point to Africa only 15 miles across the Strait go Gibraltar. 

We had to get in a line of cars and cross the border. Though Gibraltar is a small colony plopped down in Spain, it is all British. No Euros here. Pounds only. Signs all in English. We had to drive across the runway of the airport in order to get into the one town. 

Our destination was the parking lot for the cable car taking us to the top of "The Rock." For a small fee, except for very windy conditions, you take a very steep cable car ride up the side of the  mountain to an observation building with stunning views in all directions. To the south across the Mediterranean Sea, on a clear day, is Morocco.

Here and there around the grounds up here, the famous Barbary Macaques scamper around getting into all sorts of mischief, including jumping on tourists that get a little too familiar or are offering food (something tourists are officially not supposed to offer). Dozens of these monkeys make this mountain their home and their waste is being rinsed off by employees quite often. Other than that amazing view, they are the big attraction up here. 

We spent an hour or so wandering around the mountain top taking pictures and interacting with the monkeys  before heading back down the mountain. We drove around the mountain and out to a lighthouse and viewpoint. The wind seems to be always present but Gibraltar is nevertheless a stunning place and worth going out of your way to see.   

Now, on to Sevilla!